WATZMANN TRAVERSE IN TWO DAYS: EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW

Watzmann is a mountain massif in Germany’s Berchtesgaden National Park, in the Bavarian Alps. The classic Watzmann Traverse crosses its three main summits: Hocheck (2651 m), Mittelspitze (2713 m) and Südspitze (2712 m). It’s an exposed alpine route with only a few sections protected by fixed steel cables, but a climbing harness and via ferrata lanyard are highly recommended. I sucessfully completed the Watzmann Traverse over two days, and here’s everything you need to know to do the same. Let’s get straight into it!

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO DO THE WATZMANN TRAVERSE?

Watzmann is the highest mountain located entirely within Germany, rising in Berchtesgaden National Park, near the famous Königssee Lake. The trail, partially secured by steel cables for self-protection, crosses three peaks of the massif: Hocheck (2651 m), Mittelspitze (2713 m) and Südspitze (2712 m). According to the map below, the whole loop is 23,5 km, with an elevation gain of 2270 m and elevation loss of 2270 m. The elevation difference is quite significant, which is why you usually need two days to do the Watzmann Traverse. Day 1 is an ascent from the parking lot (47.6027656N, 12.9235622E) to the Watzmannhaus at 1930 m, and day 2 is the actual ridge traverse, followed by the descent and a hike back to the parking lot.

Watzmann Traverse – map

WHAT IS THE WATZMANN TRAVERSE ACTUALLY LIKE?

From Hocheck, through Mittelspitze, all the way up to the Südspitze peak, runs a 1,5-kilometer-long via ferrata rated at B difficulty. Or should I say, it used to run, as today only traces of it remain. Watzmann is an incredibly popular mountain in Germany, attracting massive crowds every year, including many inexperienced hikers. Due to the high number of accidents, the authorities took an unusual step: instead of adding more fixed protection, they decided to remove most of it. It’s quite an interesting and somewhat controversial approach, but in reality, bare rock is more intimidating for the unprepared. As a result, the Watzmann Traverse is now only partially secured by steel cables for protection using a via ferrata set.

HOW HARD IS TO HIKE THE WATZMANN TRAVERSE?

The most frequent question about the Watzmann Traverse is how hard it really is. The ridge lacks metal aids like iron steps or ladders, and many sections require hands-on scrambling, regardless of whether you can clip into a steel cable or not. Having said that, you need to be aware that many spots are completely unprotected, though the good news is: the most exposed sections still are. I definitely discourage this route for anyone who doesn’t feel completely comfortable on exposed ridges or who suffers from even the slightest fear of heights or open space. Being comfortable with rock scrambling is absolutely crucial here.

WHAT IS THE ASCENT TO THE WATZMANNHAUS LIKE?

The trail from the parking lot to Watzmannhaus mountain hut (1930 m) is only 7 km long, but it involves 1300 m of elevation gain. Luckily, this section is really enjoyable. The path ascends gradually through the woods, followed by more open terrain. There’s also one mountain hut along the way, Mitterkaseralm (1420 m), where you can take a break, grab a coffee, and treat yourself to something sweet. If you want to spend the night at Watzmannhaus, a reservation is a must. You need to book your spot ahead of time through their official website, and then… hope for good weather. To be completely honest with you, I wouldn’t dare attempt the Watzmann Traverse if the rock is wet, or if there is a storm or gusty winds in the forecast.

WHAT’S THE ACCOMMODATION AT WATZMANHAUS LIKE?

Watzmannhaus is a large, spacious mountain hut with a great vibe and amazing food. As I already mentioned, you need to book your room in advance, though you pay on arrival in cash – in euros, of course. I chose a 6-bed dorm and paid 25€ with a discount for my Alpenverein membership. Naturally, if you’re not a member, the price will be higher. The rooms are very clean and well maintained, but you need to bring your own sleeping bag. When it comes to bathrooms, there are only sinks, no showers. In case of a sudden change of plans, it’s important to alter or cancel your reservation as soon as possible. If you don’t do it, the fee will be charged to the card you provided during the booking – even if you don’t show up.

WHAT’S THE DESCENT FROM THE RIDGE LIKE?

For me the hardest part wasn’t the actual ridge traverse, which is the section between Hocheck and Südspitze, but the descent from Südspitze down into the valley. Going down is just as technically challenging as the ridge traverse itself plus extremely steep and partially covered in scree. Combined with all-day fatigue, it’s a pretty brutal mix. This is yet another proof that Watzmann Traverse is a serious undertaking and shouldn’t be treated lightly. Apart from being comfortable with exposure, and rock scrambling, being in great physical shape is crucial for this trek too, even if you take two days to complete it.

HOW TO PLAN THE WATZMANN TRAVERSE?

Is it possible to do the Watzmann traverse in one day? Probably yes, but it requires excellent physical shape and an early start, basically in the middle of the night. Not for me at this point! When it comes to the direction of the trek, I’d still choose the same route a second time: from Watzmannhaus up to Südspitze and then down to the valley (no matter how brutal the descent from the ridge was). To be honest, I don’t really have any logical arguments to back this up. I guess I’d just rather wreck myself at the end of the trek rather than right at the start. Between this point: 47.5317164N, 12.8988122E and the parking lot, there are two more mountain huts with food: Wimbachgrieshütte and Wimbachschloss. The full-day parking fee is 9€.

WHAT ARE MY TAKEAWAYS FROM THE WATZMANN TRAVERSE?

It’s an amazing adventure that requires caution at every single step. Even though the most exposed sections are still secured with steel cables for self-protection, the stretch from Hocheck to Südspitze had quite a few spots that made my heart race anyway. The massive exposure combined with new, unfamiliar terrain definitely kept my adrenaline pumping. I felt a constant sense of uncertainty about what was waiting around the corner. I think I’d feel much more relaxed on a second try. The last rather stressful factor is the complete lack of bailout options. You either push through to the end, or turn back – there’s no way to go off the ridge before reaching Südspitze. Make sure to bring your via ferrata set and a helmet. Good luck!

That’s everything you need to know about the Watzmann Traverse in two days. Do you have any questions about it? Let me know in the comments below!

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