KOM-EMINE IN BULGARIA: 20-DAY ITINERARY [2024]

Each and every year, I challenge myself to pick a long-distance trail that will push my physical and mental boundaries a bit further. Last year, it was the GR20 in Corsica, 180 km with massive elevation change. This year, it was all about the distance. My goal was to hit the 500 km mark through mountains in one go. Kom-Emine seemed perfect for that. It’s a 600 km trail that follows the main ridge of the Balkan Mountains. Long enough, but not too technical. Below you can find my 20-day itinerary for hiking Kom-Emine in Bulgaria.

DAY 0 | Sofia – New Kom Hut

Day 0 was all about getting from Sofia to Berkovitsa and walking to the New Kom Hut located below Kom Peak. Berkovitsa is a small town, where you can still buy some groceries before starting the actual trek. The beginning of the trail isn’t marked, so this is where you need to start using your map. The shortest route to the hut is 12,5 km. You will walk through fields, and then up along an asphalt road. There are two water sources along the way. For more details on how to get from Sofia to Berkovitsa, go to a separate post.

Walking track: 12,5 km, 5 hours
Elevation gain: 1120 m
Elevation loss: 0 m

New Kom Hut: 4-bed rooms with private bathroom, mid-range standard, sockets in the rooms
My meals: breakfast (Sofia), lunch (Berkovitsa), dinner (New Kom Hut)
Water refill along the way: possible

DAY 1 | New Kom Hut – Proboinitsa Hut

Day 1 starts with going up to Kom Peak (2016 m), which is the official beginning of the trek. Just a reminder. Make sure to take two stones from there. As the tradition says, one to keep as a souvenir and the other one to throw into the Black Sea once you finish walking. This section is stunning, but remains poorly marked and sometimes overgrown. This is also the day, I learned that the widest path often turns out to be the wrong one. So, check your map frequently and watch out for vipers. I saw two of them crossing my path. Not good!

Walking track: 30,6 km, 10 hours
Elevation gain: 992 m
Elevation loss: 1518 m

Proboinitsa Hut: 2-bed rooms with private bathroom, high standard, sockets in the rooms
My meals: breakfast (my own), lunch (fast food Petrohan), dinner (Proboinitsa Hut)
Water refill along the way: possible (43.1178511N, 23.1278861E)

DAY 2 | Proboinitsa Hut – Trastena Hut

The trail between the Proboinitsa hut, and Trastena hut is mostly an asphalt road. Water refill is not an issue till Gara Lakatnik. Past that point, there’s one more water source near Turističeski Zaslon “Miki”, but the water seemed dirty, so I decided not to drink it. I would highly recommend taking more water in Gara Lakatnik, and restocking your supplies properly there too (43.0845447N, 23.3806781E). The next shop isn’t for nearly 240 km. Do not try to go shopping in Lakatnik, the town past Gara Lakatnik. The shop is gone.

Walking track: 21,3 km, 7 hours 20 minutes
Elevation gain: 862 m
Elevation loss: 719 m

Trastena Hut: camped in a tent near the hut, shared bathroom, great vibe
My meals: breakfast (my own), lunch (Gara Lakatnik shop), dinner (Trastena Hut)
Water refill along the way: possible

DAY 3 | Trastena Hut – Leskova Hut

Leskova Hut is no doubt the worst accommodation on Kom-Emine. Honestly, it’s hard to even call it a hut. It’s a crumbling shack. The conditions were so bad, I decided to sleep on a bench by the hut, and surprise, surprise, I still had to pay for it. Unfortunately, skipping this hut means doubling the stages and walking 43 km in one day. That was way too much for me on the second day of the trek. Alternatively, you can go wild-camping. There’s no water source along the way, but you can get a refill once reaching the Leskova Hut.

Walking track: 21,2 km, 7 hours
Elevation gain: 658 m
Elevation loss: 498 m

Leskova Hut: dormitory with shared bathroom, awful standard, no sockets, terrible food
My meals: breakfast (Trastena Hut), lunch (my own), dinner (my own)
Water refill along the way: not possible

DAY 4 | Leskova Hut – Murgash Hut

Murgash Hut is my favourite on Kom-Emine. The owners were incredibly kind to me, they served me a huge plate of food and even gave some tips for the next day, obviously in Bulgarian. The route is pretty straight forward the entire day, but I would make one small change. It’s better to go around Murgash Peak (1686 m) by turning right just before the summit, and getting up there the next morning, preferably to watch the sunrise. When it comes to water, a refill is possible at the end of the day, 1 km before the Murgash Hut.

Walking track: 23,5 km, 8 hours
Elevation gain: 894 m
Elevation loss: 749 m

Murgash Hut: 4-bed rooms with shared bathroom, great standard, sockets in the dining area
My meals: breakfast (Leskova Hut), lunch (my own), dinner (Murgash Hut)
Water refill along the way: possible

DAY 5 | Murgash Hut – Chavdar Hut

Chavdar Hut is my second favorite on Kom-Emine, right after the Murgash hut. The host cooks very well, is extremely kind and speaks English. The bathroom was not super clean, but the rooms were in amazing condition. The stretch from Murgash Peak to Vitinya Pass is not too hard, after that it gets a bit tougher. You will be crossing a busy road, so watch out for incoming cars. Then, the path is overgrown and lacks markings, or they are very hard to understand. The trail gets easier again past the Arabakonak Monument.

Walking track: 35,9 km, 12 hours
Elevation gain: 930 m
Elevation loss: 1088 m

Chavdar Hut: dormitories with shared bathroom, great standard, sockets in the dining area
My meals: breakfast (my own), lunch (my own), dinner (Chavdar Hut)
Water refill along the way: possible

DAY 6 | Chavdar Hut – Momina Polana Hut

Beautiful section and probably my favourite on Kom-Emine. The first part to the Kashana Hut is easy, then it gets much tougher. The trail goes constantly up and down, there’s no clear ridge path or signage. To get to the Momina Polana Hut, you need to descent 400 m, and if I had known that the water source is only 2 km further away, I would have wild camped on the ridge. That day was long and exhausting, the descent to the hut knocked me out, and the only thing I was lacking in my backpack at that moment, was water to drink.

Walking track: 32,1 km, 11 hours 30 minutes
Elevation gain: 1528 m
Elevation loss: 1160 m

Momina Polana Hut: dormitories with shared bathroom, good standard, sockets in the rooms
My meals: breakfast (my own), lunch (Kashana Hut), dinner (Momina Polana Hut)
Water refill along the way: possible (42.7519786N, 24.0767006E)

DAY 7 | Momina Polana Hut – Echo Hut

From the Momina Polana Hut, you can walk back up the same route steeply onto the ridge, or alternatively take the path that goes along the ridge and gradually climbs up to connect with Kom-Emine a little further on. Antonski Preval is another beautiful spot on Kom-Emine. I witnessed there a cloud inversion which literally made my day. Echo Hut is the first hut located on the ridge. When it comes to water, it’s only available at the beginning of this section, past the junction where you go down to the Momina Polana Hut.

Walking track: 25,1 km, 9 hours 15 minutes
Elevation gain: 1335 m
Elevation loss: 1316 m

Echo Hut: dormitories with shared bathroom, good standard, sockets in the rooms
My meals: breakfast (my own), lunch (my own), dinner (Echo Hut)
Water refill along the way: possible (42.7718125N, 24.2704861E)

DAY 8 | Echo Hut – Dobrila Hut

Day 8 is mostly walking on the ridge and through the forest with many fallen trees. From afar, you will see the Arch of Freedom, which is the historical Bulgarian monument. The construction is pretty impressive, and you will eventually walk close to it. It’s located at the Troyan Pass. There are two huts on that section, where you can buy something to eat and drink, the Kozyra Stena Hut and Dermenka Hut. You’ll also walk by the Orlovo Gnezdo Hut, but this one is unstaffed. You can get inside though, and take water from the tap.

Walking track: 31,4 km, 12 hours
Elevation gain: 1144 m
Elevation loss: 1020 m

Dobrila Hut: hotel, 2-bed rooms with private bathroom, high standard, sockets in the rooms
My meals: breakfast (Kozyra Stena Hut), lunch (Dermenka Hut), dinner (Dobrila Hut)
Water refill along the way: possible

DAY 9 | Dobrila Hut – Tur Spalnâ „Botev Vr”h’

Day 9 is the day of traversing the most technical section on Kom-Emine. It includes walking on an exposed ridge secured with chains and using your hands in a couple of places. Crucial part, don’t underestimate the weather. If the forecast shows storms or high winds, stay longer at the Dobrila Hut and rest instead. Botev Shelter had a weird vibe, so I summited Botev Peak (2376 m), the highest peak of the Balkan Mountains, and stayed overnight in a cabin on the top (booking ahead needed). Water available only at Botev Shelter.

Walking track: 15,9 km, 7 hours 20 minutes
Elevation gain: 1355 m
Elevation loss: 787 m

Tur Spalnâ “Botev Vr”h’: dormitory with no bathroom, outdoor toilet, sockets in the room
My meals: breakfast (my own), lunch (my own), dinner (Tur Spalnâ „Botev Vr”h’)
Water refill along the way: not possible

DAY 10 | Tur Spalnâ „Botev Vr”h’ – Mazalat Hut

Day 10 is all about a scenic walk along the ridge. At the very end, just before the Mazalat Hut, there’s a short exposed scramble assisted with a steel rope. Nothing too difficult though. Mazalat Hut is the last high-mountain hut on Kom-Emine, and a sign of the end of the central section of the trail. I really enjoyed staying there overnight. The hut was full, I had no reservation, but the owners were kind enough to offer me a room anyway. What’s more, they serve great food. Water can be taken from the river near the Tazha Hut.

Walking track: 21 km, 8 hours
Elevation gain: 745 m
Elevation loss: 1589 m

Mazalat Hut: dormitories with shared bathroom, great standard, sockets in the rooms
My meals: breakfast (my own), lunch (my own), dinner (Mazalat Hut)
Water refill along the way: possible (42.7512161N, 25.0024528E)

DAY 11 | Mazalat Hut – Old Buzludža Hut

Back to civilization! Three hours away from Mazalat Hut, there is Patrizanska Pesen that offers food, snacks, and beverages. After another four hours of hiking, you will reach Shipka Pass with a restaurant and two small shops. Don’t miss having a meal there! Heading towards the Old Buzludža Hut, you will pass by an extremely interesting building, resembling a UFO. The Buzludzha Monument served as the headquarters of the Bulgarian Communist Party until 1990. Now, the building is ruined, and it’s not allowed to get inside.

Walking track: 31 km, 10 hours 40 minutes
Elevation gain: 1021 m
Elevation loss: 1232 m

Old Buzludža Hut: 4-bed rooms with private bathroom, good standard, sockets in the rooms
My meals: breakfast (Partizanska Pesen), lunch (Shipka Pass restaurant), dinner (Old Buzludža Hut)
Water refill along the way: possible (42.7777122N, 25.1639378E; 42.7545361N, 25.2363414E)

DAY 12 | Old Buzludža Hut – Himik Hut

That was not my favourite section. It really drained me and I didn’t even know why. Perhaps it was the overgrown forests, searching for signs or maybe I was just starting to feel the kilometres in my feet. The trail passes through wind turbine fields, cow pastures and thick forests. Interestingly, the Gradadliva Hut, the stop suggested by the guidebook, turned out to be closed. Luckily, the Himik Hut located a bit further along the trail, had a spare room. The owner welcomed me warmly and cooked me a big and well-deserved meal.

Walking track: 30,6 km, 10 hours
Elevation gain: 793 m
Elevation loss: 1319 m

Himik Hut: 4-bed rooms with shared bathroom, great standard, sockets in the rooms
My meals: breakfast (my own), lunch (my own), dinner (Himik Hut)
Water refill along the way: possible

• 42.7353669N, 25.4212989E
• 42.7634772N, 25.4736578E
• 42.7652136N, 25.5032964E

DAY 13 | Himik Hut – Chumerna Hut

This section is one of the easiest on the entire Kom-Emine. The trail stretches mostly through forest, unfortunately overgrown at times. Less than a kilometer in, you will reach Predela restaurant with a small shop selling snacks. Not happy to say that, but the Chumerna Hut is one of those poorly maintained huts on the trail. Not only was the place empty despite my booking, the host from the Himik Hut had called the day before to announce my arrival, but the standard, especially in the bathrooms and toilets, was just terrible.

Walking track: 31,9 km, 11 hours
Elevation gain: 1305 m
Elevation loss: 703 m

Chumerna Hut: 2-bed rooms with shared bathroom, mid-range standard, sockets in the dining area
My meals: breakfast (Predela restaurant), lunch (my own), dinner (Chumerna Hut)
Water refill along the way: possible (42.7824175N, 25.7597303E; 42.7803594N, 25.8165519E)

DAY 14 | Chumerna Hut – wild camping

Another easy day, the route runs mostly through the forest. Unfortunately, water is available only near Vratnik Shelter, 220 m off-trail. Vratnik Shelter is a total mess, maybe you could wait out a storm there, but staying overnight inside was a big no to me. There’s a lot of space for camping next to the shelter, but the amount of trash and empty alcohol bottles made me feel like it’s not a good idea. That’s why I kept pushing on. After covering a few more kilometres, I found myself a quiet spot, close to the trail, but hidden enough.

Walking track: 29,3 km, 10 hours
Elevation gain: 877 m
Elevation loss: 1236 m

Wild camping: 42.8323561N, 26.2455506E
My meals: breakfast (my own), lunch (my own), dinner (my own)
Water refill along the way: possible (42.8195606N, 26.2134100E)

DAY 15 | Wild camping – Kotel

Day 15 is all about hiking through open fields and tall grass. I managed to get water only once, at the end of the day, less than two hours before Kotel. My plan for this section was to finish it as soon as possible and spend the rest of the time in the town of Kotel, resting, eating and sleeping. I booked myself a room at Guest House & Bistro Lefterova, had a full meal at Чорбаджийница Попското, and did some shopping at one of the local supermarkets. I highly recommend the restaurant I ate at, delicious food and great vibe.

Walking track: 24,1 km, 7 hours 30 minutes
Elevation gain: 466 m
Elevation loss: 976 m

Kotel: Guest House & Bistro Lefterova
My meals: breakfast (my own), lunch (Kotel), dinner (Kotel)
Water refill along the way: possible (42.8506661N, 26.4235556E)

DAY 16 | Kotel – Varbishki Prohod Hut

That was my worst day on Kom-Emine, but high chances you will do better than me. After leaving Kotel, the trail leads along the asphalt road, and then turns right. If you want to save yourself some suffering, add a few kilometres by continuing on the asphalt road and jump back on Kom-Emine here: 42.9285775N, 26.5007778E. The section past the asphalt lacks trail markings, is terribly overgrown and there’s a huge risk of bumping into shepherd dogs. I don’t recommend it. If I were to do it again, I’d defiinitely take a detour.

Walking track: 27,1 km, 9 hours
Elevation gain: 740 m
Elevation loss: 816 m

Varbishki Prohod Hut: 4-bed rooms with private bathroom, good standard, sockets in the rooms
My meals: breakfast (Kotel), lunch (my own), dinner (Bistro Baboj & Varbishki Prohod Hut)
Water refill along the way: possible (42.9430553N, 26.6116653E)

DAY 17 | Varbishki Prohod Hut – wild camping

At this point I had only one goal, to push harder and walk as long as I can each day, just to test my limits. This section wasn’t easy. At first, it seemed innocent, but after a while, it turned out the trail was overgrown and poorly marked. Crossing Rish Pass was another challenge. The road was extremely busy, I had to be very careful, watch out for cars and trucks. Important note. Returning from the asphalt road to the trail requires jumping over a barrier. The Hazim Forester Shelter is a total mess, so I went wild-camping again.

Walking track: 45,9 km, 15 hours 15 minutes
Elevation gain: 1481 m
Elevation loss: 1409 m

Wild camping: 42.9034597N, 27.0530094E
My meals: breakfast (my own), lunch (my own), dinner (my own)
Water refill along the way: possible

• 42.9518392N, 26.6718361E
• 42.9427731N, 26.7001606E
• 42.9399392N, 26.8588961E
• 42.9376447N, 26.9864558E

DAY 18 | Wild camping – Muslim Cemetery

I have never slept in a freakier place. On day 18 I fell asleep at a Muslim cemetery. At first, I just went in to wash my face and have some rest, but the moment I sat down, I felt so sleepy, I couldn’t do anything with it. It was a long and exhausting day walking along asphalt roads. But, I also got to see the sea for the first time and that was pretty exciting and even moving. Along the way, there are some towns, Planinitsa with a small shop, Daskotna with restaurants, bars and a supermarket, and Dobra Polyana with another small shop.

Walking track: 43,5 km, 13 hours 15 minutes
Elevation gain: 742 m
Elevation loss: 808 m

Muslim Cemetery: 42.8274622N, 27.4479050E
My meals: breakfast (Planinitsa), lunch (Daskotna), dinner (my own)
Water refill along the way: possible

• 42.9042297N, 27.0842889E
• 42.8923539N, 27.1561442E
• 42.8754764N, 27.1814339E
• 42.8384394N, 27.2647514E

DAY 19 | Muslim Cemetery – Emona

That day, I finished the hike in Emona, literally 2 km before the lighthouse. I reached the coast around 8:00 pm, having 50 km in, and covering 46 km and 43 km on two previous days. Only 4 km remained (2 km to the lighthouse and 2 km back to Emona) to finish the entire trek, but in that moment, those 4 km felt like another 50 km. I was exhausted, and it would’ve been dark by the time I got to the lighthouse. After thoughtful consideration, I decided to book a hotel and go straight to bed. I highly recommend Вила Емона.

Walking track: 50 km, 14 hours 30 minutes
Elevation gain: 753 m
Elevation loss: 1014 m

Emona: Villa Emona (Вила Емона)
My meals: breakfast (my own), lunch (Kozichino), dinner (Villa Emona)
Water refill along the way: possible (42.7655872N, 27.7536986E)

DAY 20 | Emona – Elenite

Mission accomplished! 600 kilometres walked in 20 days. I wasn’t feeling great that morning, but as the tradition has it, I went to throw one of my stones into the Black Sea. Unfortunately, it’s not possible to touch or get too close to the lighthouse. It’s currently a military zone. Getting from Cape Emine to the nearest town is possible only on foot. For practical information on how to reach Elenite, Sveti Vlas or the airport, go to a separate post. For a short vacation in Sveti Vlas, I highly recommend staying at the Mint Villa. Enjoy!

Walking track: 14 km, 4 hours 30 minutes
Elevation gain: 342 m
Elevation loss: 493 m

Sveti Vlas: The Mint Villa
My meals: breakfast (Villa Emona), lunch (Sveti Vlas), dinner (Sveti Vlas)
Water refill along the way: not possible

This was my 20-day itinerary for hiking Kom-Emine in Bulgaria. Are you planning to do it quicker or slower? Let me know in the comments!

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